Château Duhart-Milon 2006

It is no longer an insider’s secret that the investments made by the Rothschild family (of Lafite) in Duhart Milon are paying big dividends. A shrewd Pauillac lover’s delight, it possesses exceptional quality, yet the price remains fair. This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, only 50% made it into the final blend, displays some of Lafite’s classic notes of lead pencil shavings, cedar, and black currants along with more earthy, roasted herb, and spice box characteristics. Rich, full-bodied, dense, and already approachable, it should evolve easily for two decades. Good value.

The character of this wine, a straight line of tannins and black currant fruit flavors, is the model of a classic Pauillac. It has all the structure as well as some austerity and severity at this stage in its development. But the fruit texture is rich enough, dried fruits and spice followed by licorice and bitter chocolate. Age for five years at least.

The 2006 Duhart-Milon opened slowly in the glass after an initial reticence to show aromas of black fruit, cigar leaf and graphite. The texture surprised with its seamless, silky tannic structure and elegant feel that lingered on the palate. It would be easy to overlook this wine, but a delightfully subtle wine awaits those with patience. The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, aged in cask (50% new) for 14 - 16 months.

Tasted blind. Brawny and a bit wild. Racy and rich biscuit. Thick and solid. (JR)

Medium bodied, fresh, classic and still youthful, the red berry, tobacco, lead pencil and cedar nose brings you to a medium bodied, crisp, soft, but firm palate. Time should help this wine soften and expand.

A remarkable success, a more complete wine than Carruades, confirming that the estate has now hit its stride. It shows the same graphite notes (a touch more rounded) as Lafite, oak ageing that is just as noble and respectful of the fruit, and tannins that are only slightly less refined. Only the texture seems a little less dense and tightly knit.

The score has dropped since the en primeur tastings. It might have been a little riper. Supple on the attack. Medium-bodied and aromatic. The finish is a bit lively. Medium length.