René Gabriel
97: Barrel sample (16/20): dense, complex bouquet showing great depth, with a hint of dried banana. Firm palate, lots of flesh, a strict tannic note in the extract, which unfortunately—like last year—makes it a bit rugged, almost green; cherry tones on the finish. The tannin outweighs the aromas, giving the wine a very strict profile. 00: Medium Bordeaux red, saturated in the center, lightening at the rim. Sweet bouquet, quite red-berried for a Pauillac, gently jammy nuances on the nose. On the palate first juicy, then gently firm tannins, long-bodied structure; needs five more years to fully unfold. (17/20). 13: Dark garnet, first fine signs of maturity. Fine terroir accents, freshly tanned leather, pepper notes, fine woods, cedar, a hint of mint, showing lovely maturity. On the palate beautifully spicy, the tannins are ripe and carry a racy note. As much flesh as muscle—perhaps a touch ascetic—but already an almost classic experience to enjoy now. Long life. (17/20). 21: The color is surprisingly pale with little core. Conversely, the development of maturity is still limited. Open bouquet, more earthy than fruity: sun-dried tomatoes, dried goji berries, bastwood, dark autumn mushrooms (black morels), a salty, mineral shimmer on the nose with an appealing touch of terroir. Medium-weight palate, well balanced, fairly fine in its flesh and still showing some reserves. It improved with air and then remained for a very long time at a beautiful level of enjoyment. So decanting is a good recommendation. (17/20).