René Gabriel
Medium yellow, still a bit cloudy. Complex bouquet with tremendous freshness: mirabelle plums, acacia honey, fresh mint, verbena; despite the enormous concentration, it feels playful, already perfect on the nose. On the palate it explodes, half fresh, half sweet, ripe fruit, plush extract, sensational balance, extreme, never-ending length. A masterclass at a world-class level! Nicolas Heeter-Tari recalls his 2004 harvest at Château Nairac in detail: “The summer—July and August—was very rainy, little sun. Nevertheless, this vintage must be described as too dry. Normally about 70 millimeters of rain fall in June. In 2004 it was exactly zero. In the following months we were always 25 millimeters below the long-term average. At Nairac, the first picking run was on September 30 through October 7 in good conditions. That was about half of the total harvest. Second pass from October 1 to 14. The grapes were still very healthy and with good botrytis despite the rain. That was around a quarter of the harvest. Third pass from October 25 to 27. A less good portion because here the grapes did suffer from the rain. The fourth selection from November 8 to 10 and the last lot from November 15 to 16 as a finale with very concentrated grapes. From the total harvest we then downgraded about one third and thus ended up at 14 hl/ha. 07: In Geneva and three times at the estate. Thus there are three 20-point wines in Sauternes for the vintage: Yquem, Climens and Nairac! 08: After tasting the equally brilliant 2007, we drank it at five in the evening with Nicolas at the château at the big table. There are moments when wine should not be described, but enjoyed. This was one of them. 09: How should a truly great Barsac taste? Exactly like this; slim, peppery, with plenty of citrus notes and a light honeyed sweetness, finishing with mirabelle and lemon oil. (20/20). 17: Orange-gold. Intense, fully sweet yet peppery bouquet, sensationally perfumed botrytis, freshly broken mandarin peels and Cointreau liqueur. On the palate, juicy, elegant and not at all overloaded by sweetness, concentrated in extract, great length. An emotional sip of a Barsac of the century! 20/20. P.S. It paired beautifully with the sensational marillenpalatschinken. We were in Linz/Lichtenberg, at the Gasthaus zum Schmiedgraben.