Kanonkop Wine Estate : Paul Sauer 50 2009

The 2009 Paul Sauer is still very primal on the nose and there remains some oak to be integrated. The palate is smooth and harmonious with fine tannins and there is much more purity than previous vintages. It is lithe and feminine with a sweet, pretty finish. This is a lovely, sensual Pinotage. Drink 2015-2025. At a time when a lot of the so-called old guard are rapidly being outpaced, outflanked by the new generation of winemakers who have travelled overseas and introduced a more thoughtful approach to their craft, Kanonkop are a testament to fact that some of the country’s stalwarts can remain at the top of their game. Many producers merely pay lip service to the notion of finesse, but at Kanonkop that is evident where it matters – in the glass. So kudos to owners Johann and Paul Krige and especially to winemaker Abrie Beeslaar, installed at Kanonkop since 2002, for all their hard work. What I found interesting was Abrie’s conviction that Kanonkop has remained true to what it does, ignoring fads and fashions, merely fine-tuning its style. I have to say that over the last ten years their wines have attained a greater degree of refinement and purity, therefore something must have changed! What distinguishes Kanonkop is both the enviable age of some of its vine stock, especially its Pinotage, and the corollary of longevity. These are wines that are probably drunk way too early by consumers, although I can understand why. Chuck two or three bottles in your cellar and leave them for 20 years – you will be amazed at what you will find. Now for a vertical of Kanonkop’s Pinotage, which were all shown at a tasting in London in the presence of the owners and winemaker of Kanonkop. As I have already mentioned, Pinotage has an under-appreciated propensity to age, hence my reason for publishing these notes. Kanonkop boasts some of South Africa’s oldest Pinotage plantings from 1953. The fruit is fermented in open-top fermenters with punching down every two hours and then raised for 18 months in oak, usually around 80% new. Abrie stressed that in his opinion, new oak is essential to make a truly great Pinotage. That is not a view that I would necessarily agree with, though on the other hand there is no question that Kanonkop’s Pinotage soaks up that new wood with style and it is completely subsumed with age. Importer: Cape Classics, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-1300 and through Raisin Social in the UK.

Features a core of dark plum, cassis and blackberry fruit, offset by floral anise notes. Delivers ample grip, but remains sleek and fine-grained, with a flicker of apple wood filling out the finish. Shows latent depth and should cellar nicely. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Best between 2014 and 2020. 100 cases imported.

This is a limited edition release of the 2009 Paul Sauer to commemorate 50 years of the Kanonkop label. The cabernet is really shining through now, with blackcurrant and blackberry-leaf aromas dominating, alongside lead pencil and spice box. Wonderfully fresh on the palate, with a medium to full body and silky yet very present tannins. Blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. Drink or hold.

Kanonkop's Bordeaux-style blend is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Aged for 24 months in new French oak.Correct and nicely balanced though it does taste as though it needs to be aerated a little more? Still pretty tough! (JR)

The 2009 Paul Sauer, which was made by current winemaker Abrie Beeslaar, comprises 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It is magnificent, one of the finest vintages that I have tasted. Still deep in colour, the bouquet bursts from the glass with copious scents of macerated black cherries, cassis, dates and Seville oranges. The palate is precocious yet balanced to a fault, a fine line of acidity keeping everything in check, exuberant from beginning to end. Caressing in texture, this Paul Sauer manages to be both hedonistic yet completely refined. It would give most self-aggrandising clarets from the same vintage a run for their money.

Very deep black-cherry red; oak not yet fully integrated, with pronounced spice and toasty notes, hints of tar, liquorice and ripe cassis; on the palate very juicy and dense, with excellent volume, dark fruit, fine tannins, good concentration yet balanced, long and promising.