Château Cantenac Brown 2023

Restrained, very noble, deep, dark-fruited, playful; crisp, like biting into a basket of fresh berries, plenty of tannins, silkily woven, builds pressure, remains highly elegant; has gained in precision thanks to the new cellar facilities.

The 2023 Cantenac Brown represents a fine vintage to inaugurate the estate's new winery, offering up aromas of sweet cassis, violets and charcoal, framed by new oak. Medium- to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit framed by rich, sweet tannins, this is a rather muscular but nicely balanced wine built to age with grace. In addition to the estate's new winery, equipped with more vats to permit parcel-by-parcel vinification, the 2023 also benefits from the inclusion of several parcels of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon on the plateau of Margaux that were acquired a few years ago.

Subtle floral aromatics led me—on both occasions I tasted it—to write “pretty wine.” When you think of Margaux, you want florals—and you get them in spades here. The attack is all finesse and elegance, with fairly racy tannins and subtle depth expressed in ripe dark and red fruit, yet understated. This is the first vintage the estate has made wine with its new cellar facilities, which have played a role in both selection and tannin extraction—very important in 2023. The finish is marked by fruit with more floral elements, although I note a touch of rawness in the tannins. In a more successful vintage, you wouldn’t have that impression, and you’d see superior mid-palate depth and less restraint, but overall, a lovely Margaux, and barrel aging will smooth all the edges. At just over 38 hl/ha, a decent yield for the appellation.

The 2023 Cantenac Brown opens with gorgeous, captivating aromatics. Crushed flowers, dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and dried autumn leaves are some of the notes that grace this elegant, super-refined Grand Vin. This is the first vintage made in the new cellar, a facility equipped with twice as many tanks as the old winery, in different sizes that allow for smaller picks. The 2023 is a beautiful wine done in a new style for the château, one that showcases an added touch of finesse. Give this a few years to come into its own. Today, Cabernet tannins are a touch imposing.

Deep, full-bodied, and round, the wine is packed with black cherries, smoke, licorice, blackberry, espresso, and flowers. Sporting a dark hue, the intense aromatic profile is just the start. The palate is opulent, powerful, rich, and intense, yet remains light on its feet thanks to its freshness and lift. The finish is long, intense, energetic, and rich, with layers of sweet, polished, luscious fruits. 2023 is the first vintage produced in the new, state-of-the-art gravity cellars, which really made a difference this year. The wine is a blend of 71.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 1.5% Petit Verdot. Drink from 2029-2055.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening. Fresh wild berries, fine cassis, floral touch, inviting bouquet. Juicy, elegant, fresh cherries, fine tannins, good freshness, mineral and good persistence, a subtle food wine.

First year in the new 100% gravity-fed cellar for this superb estate that is increasingly making its presence felt – helped not just by the new eco-conscious winery but by the extra 10ha of excellent Margaux terroir, complete with old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon on fine gravel, bought in 2020. It's a clear success in 2023, with plenty of vibrant fruit, led by spiced plum and cassis, sinewy tannins, liquorice bud, tobacco, mint and campfire smoke. It conveys coiled energy and will age well. An excellent example of a 94-point buy signal. José Sanfins director.

Score: 94–96. A dark, deep, concentrated nose with great restraint, revealing notes of raspberry jam on toast, stewed wild blackberries, lilies, and black licorice. On the palate, the wine is feather-light, ultra-precise, delicate, with a hint of sappy flowers on the finish. The finish is fresh, saline, mouthwatering, unveiling porcelain-like tannins that leave barely a powdery veil on the palate.

The nose is beautifully ripe, precise and elegant, offering aromatic density, depth and fine concentration. It reveals notes of bigarreau cherry and roasted, juicy red berries, with hints of almost thyme blossom, pepper, graphite and fine toasty accents. The palate is beautifully juicy, fruity, fresh, mineral, balanced, well-defined and precise, delivering indulgence, accuracy, silkiness, a lifted, airy feel and bright, shining fruit. It shows notes of bigarreau cherry, fresh liquorice and, more delicately, juicy/pulpy raspberry and bright small berries, combined with a touch of thyme flowers and infusion, as well as fine hints of toast, graphite, star anise and nutmeg. A lovely touch of softness and iodine on the finish. Fine chalky tannins with a fine grain, supple and gourmand. Lovely juiciness, suppleness, freshness, and a refined sense of detail and harmony.