René Gabriel
01: Barrel sample (17/20): On the nose, plenty of floral spice tones, tobacco and green Cabernet traces, but balanced by a conciliatory sweetness likely coming from the barriques, blackcurrant and blackberry; the attack feels full yet surprisingly light. On the palate, lots of substance, soft, velvety at first, again those bell-pepper and Cabernet spice notes, balanced, fine tannin structure, good backbone, but despite nice breadth it lacks a bit of the concentration and power expected from a highly touted vintage. Is that finesse? Or insufficient rigorous selection? Somehow the whole exercise recalls the likewise somewhat superficial Pichon-Lalande 1990! With its sensual allure and its pleasing, popular taste, it will surely win many fans. We will give this wine another chance after bottling and possibly readjust then, though given the lack of power that seems doubtful. Just before bottling in 2002: A rich, opulent, almost creamy wine with intoxicating fruit and also barrique sweetness, lots of drive on the finish. If I give it only 17/20, I’ll rile up the Pichon-Lalande fan club. It’s a winning charmer that doesn’t deliver true Pauillac stature but rather lavish sensuality. And since wine isn’t everything in life, as a man I am a bit dazzled by such lavish sensuality. (18/20). 07: Very dark purple-garnet, ruby rim. A powerhouse bouquet with an indomitable sweetness, Amarena cherries, fine woods, Dominican tobacco, musk, opens only slowly and shows enormous force. Dense, meaty palate, extremely concentrated extract, focused, supple yet still demanding tannins, extreme length. Now showing greater than previously assumed. 10: Nutty, toasty, lots of caramel and café au lait, red plum preserve. Velvety palate, velour-like texture, seems a bit avant-garde, since after 10 years the barrique should no longer be so much to the fore in flavor. Eroticism versus typicity. As a 2000 Bordeaux it should already have a bit more flesh on the bones. For now 17/20. 12: Maturing wine-red, somewhat matte, with a lightening rim. Vegetal bouquet, some bell pepper and gherkins, showing a conciliatory sweetness. Gives initial pleasure on the palate, slightly crumbly tannins, but here too the green note comes through. A bit disappointing given the great vintage’s image.