Château Rauzan-Gassies 2010

At around 50 euros a bottle, this is currently (and for the next four to six years) a wine that is naturally somewhat closed, with tannins broadened by the maturation, providing good support while still allowing the delicate fruit aromas and freshness to come through. Clearly the best wine from this estate so far.

The 2010 is a very strong effort from this estate, which is situated next to the other, better-known Rauzan, Rauzan Segla. Dense purple, its sweet notes of underbrush, forest floor, licorice, black currants and a hint of lead pencil shavings are followed by a lush, ripe, surprisingly fleshy and succulent wine that is much more evolved and forward at this stage than when tasted from barrel. I thought this wine would need more cellar time, but it is actually approachable in spite of its size, richness and density. Give it several years of cellaring and drink it over the following 20+ years.

Ripe and direct, with a solid core of roasted plum and steeped black currant fruit framed by charcoal and bay leaf notes. Shows flashes of hot stone on the finish. Solid, but a touch shy on range and length. Best from 2014 through 2023. 6,666 cases made.

Incense, cedar, blackcurrants, vanilla, rose and exotic sweet spices. Focused and forward, but compact and tight. Crushed-silk tannins give good support but do cover the lighter-fruit aspects and the acidity, making this quite a serious take on the vintage without much fruit presence. Refined and elegant. Texture and weight are lovely; it’s just missing some life, but it’s well crafted.

Very floral with blueberry undertones that turn to raspberry sauce. Full body, with lovely depth of fruit and super velvety tannins. A beauty that needs five to six years to soften. Try in 2017.

Medium-bodied, with a cherry- and tobacco-tinged, floral nose. Soft, yet with firm tannins, and a finish focused on red-berry freshness; it still needs more time to fully come together.

Deep purple. Sleek bouquet with wild cherry nuances, red currants, and a touch of coffee. On the palate, it starts with a certain excess of acidity, a mealy texture, unfortunately comes across as very upfront at the moment, and also shows some capsule notes at its core. Potential rating:

Deep purple, dense at the core, garnet shimmer at the rim. Slender bouquet, wild cherry nuances, red currants and a touch of coffee. On the palate, it starts with a certain excess of acidity, floury texture, unfortunately very overt for the moment and also showing some capsule notes inside. Potential score: 17/20. 12: Dense purple, fine ruby rim. Intense, ripe, warm bouquet, showing plenty of berries and a subtly compote-like yet fitting sweetness in the background. On the palate, substantial, somewhat crumbly, but that’s something we’ve long come to expect from Rauzan-Gassies. What we’re not quite used to from it is that it is as great as in this vintage. Caution: it will remain, well into its drinking maturity, a demanding food-Margaux!

Peppery, light bouquet, strawberries, vanilla powder, cedar. Medium-bodied, soft palate with powdery tannins, light fruit, firm structure, medium finish. Can improve further. 16/20 2017 - 2028

Powerful, very sun-drenched in flavor (the same comment applies, but even more unbalanced, to the second wine, gassies), more powerful than finely aromatic, but with great ageing potential.

The attack is dense, the mid-palate superb, balanced, silky yet firm, with a splendid finish. A little marvel.

There are always green nuances in this taste. A pity.

With the 2009 and 2010 vintages, Rauzan-Gassies has hit its stride after many years of disappointments. This 2010 is powerful, fruity, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon's black currant flavor. There is a touch of barnyard at the end, but this is likely a passing phase.