Domaine du Cellier aux Moines : Givry 1er cru "Clos du Cellier aux Moines" 2017

The 2017 Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier Aux Moines continues to show beautifully, bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, rose petals and soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, lively and enveloping, with powdery tannins and a sapid finish, this is the first vintage in which some lots were declassified into a second wine, and that has clearly served this cuvée well.

The 2017 vintage for red Burgundy was Janus-like. Some wines are charming and forward. Others, like this one, have the requisite substance, structure, and balance for the long haul. This was the first year the domaine was almost fully biodynamic, and, that perhaps, explains the wine’s brilliance. Immediately expressive, the 2017 grabs your attention. Aromas leap from the glass. On the palate, it combines firm mineral qualities with a Bing cherry-like fruitiness in a suave and elegant package. Fractionally less ripe compared to the 2015, its minerality shines. A hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal. Supple, yet firm, tannins provide perfect support.

A very well-structured wine for this appellation, but with a cool heart, the dried-herb and red-berry aromas filling out the medium-bodied palate very neatly. The fine tannins are now beautifully integrated and give this a very classical feel at the long, elegant finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

HH&C report: ‘This historical Burgundy property (est. 1130) is one of our most exciting discoveries of recent years.’ The borders of the original 5 ha (12 acres) Clos still exist 870 years on, lying on a south-facing, clay-limestone hillside, now classified as Givry Premier Cru. Recognising the potential of the hillside and the neglected Cellier buildings, the Pascal family purchased the property in 2004. 100% organic certified and with a state-of-the art, gravity-fed winery now in place, a high percentage of whole bunches are used in this wine, which aged for 16 months in oak (one-third new). Bright crimson. Really very open and appealing on the nose – pure, accessible, sweet red burgundy. Firm, fine and fruity with real conviction. This would make lovely Christmas drinking – especially in a magnum (if we are to be allowed to celebrate with large enough numbers …). (JR)

Whole-cluster fermentation gives Clos du Cellier aux Moines an energy that supports its structure. It will refine with time; we appreciate its freshness and the oak character that frames the wine’s backbone.