Domaine Zind-Humbrecht : Pinot Gris Grand cru "Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann" 2022

From 59-year-old vines yielding 32 hectoliters per hectare on the rare volcanic sedimentary terroir of the Rangen, the 2022 Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann Pinot Gris comes from ripe, healthy grapes that fermented into a very dry wine. It opens super clear, intense and flinty on an extraordinarily deep, saline and distinctive nose that is aromatic yet subtle and substantial. On the palate, the 2022 Pinot is quite rich and powerful yet elegant. It tastes somewhat sweet but is utterly mineral and tightly structured by minerals, salts and fine, natural tannins. Fine bitters catch the moderate sweetness, which shows as richness rather than sugar. The wine is extraordinarily complex, with stimulating salinity on the long finish that lifts all the richness and makes this an extraordinary Pinot Gris as well as a great Rangen. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.

The savory tang of salt and yeastiness infuses dried apricot, guava and apple flavors in this weighty, expressive version. Its impressive depth and power simmer beneath, making this one for the cellar. The long finish is dusted with ground ginger and dried thyme. Chiseled and serious, this is still tightly coiled and needs time. Drink now through 2032. 100 cases imported.

Step into this incredible dry pinot gris kaleidoscope and it could be difficult to get out again. Exotic, spicy, smoky, but also with a cool, herbal side, this defies every easy definition. Gigantic, concentrated and crazily vibrant on the full-bodied palate. Totally off-the-scale freshness at the lightning-strike finish. Although this is from a grape variety that theoretically is low in acidity, it has the highest acidity of any wine from this producer in 2022. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

For some strange reason, the 2022 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru had the highest acidity of all the wines harvested in 2022 — even a touch more than the Riesling Roche Calcaire. This is one of nature’s mysteries. Only a vestige of pear appears on the nose. The palate is absolutely focused. Tasted blind, this would be hard to recognize as a Pinot Gris. This is unreal with its chiseled, scalpel-like acid streak, wonderful and glorious. The pear of Pinot Gris returns on the finish. The 2022 is bracing, gorgeous, unusual and magical. There’s far more Rangen than Pinot Gris. (Bone-Dry)

Just as subtle but even more penetrating, the pinot gris from Rangen delivers flamboyant fruit. With its hypnotic length and sap, it may be the greatest expression of this grape variety that we know.