Jean-Luc Colombo : La Louvée 2010

Bramble, tobacco, sweet tapenade and charcoal notes lead the way in this muscular, mineral-driven red, offering a core of steeped black currant, blueberry paste, plum sauce and bitter cherry notes that should meld nicely with the grip over time. A steely, chalky edge emerges steadily through the finish. Best from 2016 through 2030. 224 cases made.

Very dark and black at the core. The fruit smells riper than Les Ruchets but still has the savoury character to keep it in check. Spice and minerals and black pepper. Then lively and almost red-fruited on the palate – quite a surprise after the aroma. Beautifully fine tannins – you could almost drink it now – and elegant, cool length. Real finesse. (JH)

This is cool and restrained, with peppery flourishes layered over raspberry fruit. Rather than being massive or intense, it's medium bodied, perfumed and elegant, with hints of dusty tannins that build slowly on the finish. It's approachable now, but should age well through at least 2023.