M. Chapoutier : Les Granits 1999

The superb 1999 St.-Joseph Les Granits emerges from hillside soils of decomposed granite. It is tightly knit, as are many of Chapoutier's 1999s. However, there is no doubting its mineral, smoky, black currant and berry fruit intermixed with subtle wood. The dark ruby/purple color and austere attack are followed by a fleshy, super-concentrated wine with plenty of depth, purity, and length. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2015. With respect to Chapoutier's red wines, 2000 was a very fine vintage. Interestingly, this offering revealed more fat and flesh than many of his northern Rhone peers. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

A St.-Joseph with hidden strength. Reserved at first, it turns up the volume on the palate, revealing a layer of attractive mineral, wet earth, and terroir character that carries through the long finish along with a spicy, menthol note. Tough now, it should improve with cellaring. Best from 2003 through 2008. 440 cases made.

Medium ruby. Perfumed, complex aromas of sappy raspberry, spicy oak, violet face powder and crushed stone. Juicy, tight and high-pitched, with terrific delineation and inner-mouth perfume. Firmly structured and long on the aftertaste. Very granitic wine.