Valentin Zusslin : Pinot Noir "Bollenberg" 2020

Aged in Burgundian barrels for 18 months (10% of which were new), the 2020 Pinot Noir Bollenberg is deep, ripe and intense on the lovely untamed and iron-scented nose that is very concentrated yet fresh, spicy-mineral and complex. Sourced from younger vines in the potential future premiers crus Luft and Neuberg, this is a delicate, silky, fresh and vital as well as saline Pinot that is already quite open on the finish, which is a little bit astringent. 12.5% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in April and again in Barr in November 2024.

A deep and earthy pinot noir with a serious tannin structure. I love the wide range of aromas that extend from blood oranges to wet earth via sour cherries and baking spices. Bold, yet still just within the scope of medium-bodied. Imposing finish. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Pinot Noir Bollenberg opens with slight toastiness. The palate is smooth and bright, much calmer than the 2019, with equally lively acidity. Here, it aligns with translucent, tart red cherry and red forest fruit. Fine tannins yield with a little crunch and already show great elegance. A more energetic drive becomes apparent towards the powerful finish—a wine made to go the distance. (Bone-dry)

Structured and built for aging, still slightly marked by oak, the Pinot Noir Bollenberg needs time to come together, but its iron-tinged vigor quickly asserts itself and energizes the finish.