Bouchard Père & Fils : Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand cru 2017

A truly great bottle, more assertive than last year, with an admirable, complex aroma, density, freshness and length at the pinnacle of the Côte de Nuits; superb élevage—definitely save it for the grandest occasions.

From purchased grapes, it shows more density and compactness, with clear fruit but firm tannins that will need time to soften.

From bottle, the 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru wafts from the glass with pretty aromas of cassis, cherries, black tea, rose petals and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a textural attack, a fleshy, succulent core of fruit and a pure and expansive finish. Open-knit and charming, the wine's powdery, melting tannins are largely concealed. This is a generous, head-turning Clos de Bèze that delivers immense pleasure, albeit comparatively little in the way of profundity.