Clos René 2023

The 2023 Clos René is a very beautiful wine that marries classicism with the riper side of the year. That's a pretty appealing combination in my book. Racy and soft, with gorgeous textural finesse, Clos René is seductive right out of the gate. Polished tannins and floral overtones lift a core of dark-fleshed fruit. The balance here is impeccable.

Jean-Marie Garde keeps on producing old-school Pomerol that we can all be grateful still exists. Dark ruby in colour, plenty of juice, with just a hint of grilled oak and coffee bean without going too far, 15ha estate. My scores vary pretty widely by vintage, because they tend to be influenced by broader weather conditions, but it’s a success in 2023. The blend given is as planted in the vineyard, not specific to the vintage.

Score: 88–90. Slightly old-fashioned, the finely detailed nose opens on a powdery side, enlivened by notes of blackcurrant and cherry. The palate is brighter, with energy driven by the fruit’s intense acidity.

The perfume opens with smoke, flowers, liquorice, and red fruits. The medium-bodied palate is soft, subtle, fresh, and fruity, with a chalky, cocoa character, and a touch of mint in the finish. The wine blends 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. Drink from 2027-2038.

Ripe and heady, verging on opulent aromatics. This has a burst of fleshy tannins, super ripe fruit and cooling acidity all at the same time which makes a big first impact before settling to reveal a stony undercurrent backed by some liquorice and black chocolate. I like the fullness here, there’s no dryness, but lots to get your teeth stuck into.

A blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Clos René reveals aromas of plums, spices, dark berries and licorice. Medium- to full-bodied, layered and refined, it is built around a fleshy core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a gently firm finish.