Le Macchiole : Paleo 2021

In many ways, this bottle best represents the modern face of Bolgheri. I am referring to the chapter that starts after the international success of the so-called “aia” wines (Sassicaia and Ornellaia). In this new world, Coastal Tuscany faces important new challenges linked to climate change and competition from other celebrated Tuscan wine appellations. Debuted in 1989, what sets it apart is the choice of grape: Cabernet Franc. Paleo was a lone ranger back then, but today the percentage of new Cabernet Franc vineyards in the region is taking off at breakneck speed. But Le Macchiole was the first to work with it at this quality level. The 2021 Paleo is especially tight, intense and direct. These are characteristics of the vintage and of the house style. I tasted this vintage from barrel two years ago, and my remark was that the wine focuses on red and purple fruits as well as the black ones. This remains true now that the wine is in bottle. Those fruit tones cede to a floral interlude of heritage rose that leads to mulled spice and Turkish coffee. The 2021 vintage is slightly curbed or streamlined in terms of mouthfeel, holding back just a bit for extra tension and extremely elegant results.

Mint, bell pepper and vanilla accents frame the core of blackberry and black currant flavors in this supple red, which feels open, despite the dense, assertive tannins that leave a pleasant astringency on the finish. Shows fine length. Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038. 2,120 cases made, 160 cases imported.

Le Macchiole's iconic Paleo has evolved from a Bordeaux-style blend into a unique single-variety expression of Tuscany's coastline. This pioneering 100% Cabernet Franc is sourced from three estate vineyards and ferments for 25 days in concrete tanks before spending 16 months in new oak barrels, conical trunk casks and stoneware amphorae. In the glass it's sublime, showing wild blackberries, blood orange, black cherry and thick herbal shrub characters. Lilting wild flowers, bitter chocolate and espresso balance nicely alongside dusty tannins. It's a thinking, fireside wine with impressive ageing potential.

Wow. This is very polished and sophisticated, with currant, spice, fresh-herb and cedar character that goes on for minutes on the finish. The tannins are so refined yet muscular, with form and tension. Give this time to soften and come around, but a very serious red by all accounts. Small percentage of amphora aging. Cabernet franc. Best after 2028.

Like all of the wines of Le Macchiole, the 2021 Paleo is coursing with energy, exuding a self-assured confidence that makes it stand out even in a category of wines that are defined by their unabashed bravado. It's interesting that this seems to have sometimes played against its favor in critical reception, even as other much brawnier wines have been more lauded, but as Machiavelli said, if you can't be both feared and loved, better to be feared. And this is a fearsome, awe-inspiring wine indeed.