Philipponnat : Royale Réserve Brut

The NV Royale Reserve is wonderfully creamy and generous on the palate. Green apples, pears and white flowers are all layered into the expressive finish. This is a delicious entry-level Champagne to drink now and over the next few years. The current release is based on the 2007 vintage, with the addition of 26% reserve wines. Dosage was 8 grams per liter. This bottle was disgorged in August 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2106. I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine. Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Richness and ripeness are hallmarks of this smooth-textured, easy-to-drink brut, with ample fruit flavors, vanilla and butter accents and a lingering finish.

A distinctly red-berry nose – all red currants and small forest fruit. Red Delicious apple has such a telltale Pinot scent. The palate has pure, bright apple fruit, a lemony verve, and a very delicate mousse backed by gently salty autolysis. Vanilla oak comes through, like the custard on an apple crumble, carrying freshness and flavour until the lingering finish. Nominated by Tom Hewson.

Complex and smoky nose with orange blossom, green apple, licorice, chalky minerality and toasted bread. Refined palate with pinprick mousse, crisp acidity and a tight, tense and clean aftertaste. 65% pinot noir, 32% chardonnay and 3% pinot meunier. Disgorged in 2024. Dosage 8 g/L. Drink now.

Pale, green-tinged color. Aromas of candied orange, marzipan and baking spices. Juicy and dry, with nutty and toasty nuances. Solid middle-of-the-road style of non-vintage brut. Finishes slightly warm, with a flavor of toasted nuts. Also tasted: Cuvee 1522 Extra Brut.

Medium straw yellow. On the nose, fresh apple, blossom honey, a hint of white peach as well as discreet brown butter. The palate is characterised by a fine, vibrant mousse and fresh acidity, rounded body, mineral impression, and a soft, savoury finish.

The current release of the NV Champagne Royale Reserve Brut is 69% Pinot Noir, 28% Chardonnay, and the rest Meunier, mostly from the 2018 harvest and 26% reserve wine. It has a pale straw color and is fresh with white flowers, ripe peach, and rounded brioche. The palate is approachable and refreshing, with pithy citrus of lemon and orange, red fruits, and bread dough. Its ripe but fresh style casts a large net. Drink 2022-2030. Disgorged May 2022.

Superb, full-bodied and delicious, with lovely notes of red berries and great energy.

In Brut, Royale Réserve has that indulgent character while remaining taut and mouthwatering. A top-level introduction that showcases all the work done by the house. We also applaud, in an inflationary context, a pricing policy that remains very reasonable.

This is the nonvintage Champagne from this producer. With its richness and high percentage of Pinot Noir, it reflects the house style. Touches of spice and a light structure give shape to the white fruits. Drink now.