Château Troplong Mondot 1988

Lots of milk chocolate, coffee and dark fruits on the nose follow through to a medium-to-full body, with silky tannins and a chocolaty, dusty, rich finish. Still dense and tight. Beautiful and caressing. -- '88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 10,000 cases made.

The 1988 Troplong Mondot is a vintage that I have tasted for many, many years, i.e., never. It has quite a deep color. It has a very pleasant bouquet, maybe a little gentle after 30 years, with brambly blackberry and bilberry fruit, quite precise, and hints of black truffle developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannins, almost Left Bank in terms of structure, with a fresh, graphite-tinged finish. It might lack finesse and length, but there is something very “honest” about this 1988 Saint-Émilion. Tasted at the château.

Dark, dense color. Closed, sweet bouquet with oak. Nuanced, powerful palate with plenty of tannins. Forceful finish. 17/20

Tawny brick around the edging, heading to pale rose. Gentle melted tannins, dried roses and smoked earth, this is very much in its tertiary phase, beautiful classicism, has a sense of life, but at this point is a gentle old‑school St Emilion, with touches of salted cracker and saffron as it opens, and waves of welcoming campfire smoke. The quality of the terroir comes through on the finish, with a gentle lick of freshness buoyed up by the limestone soils. This has heart, and is a lovely wine. Claude Valette was owner at the time, with his daughter Christine running things, and Jean‑Pierre Taleyson cellar master. Michel Rolland already consultant, as he would remain until 2017. 50% new oak.

The 1988 Troplong Mondot has a deep garnet-brick color. It erupts from the glass with powerful notes of star anise, sandalwood, Chinese five spice, and cigar box, leading to a core of prunes, dried figs, and dusty soil. The medium-bodied palate delivers satiny tannins and fantastic freshness to support the exotic spices layers, finishing long and fragrant.

Simple nose. Fairly light, flowing palate, with a finish that’s more woody and spicy than fruity. Medium length. Should have been drunk earlier.

A beauty that has reached full maturity, this elegant wine has notes of tapenade, plums, black cherries, vanilla, and smoke, followed by medium-bodied, sweet, expansive flavors that show beautifully integrated tannin and acidity. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 11/02.