M. Chapoutier : Le Clos 2016

Looking even better than it did last year, now that it's in the bottle, Chapoutier's 2016 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is impressive indeed. Classy notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings are joined by floral hints of violets, plus ripe cassis on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it comes across as dense yet not heavy (does that make any sense?), finishing with silky tannins and a tremendously long finish. It's a tour de force in Saint-Joseph, nearly equal in quality to Chapoutier's parcel-selection wines from across the river in Hermitage.

The dark currant and blackberry fruit features a lightly mulled edge, mixing in bay leaf and sage hints, along with a whiff of singed mesquite. A subtle echo of smoldering earth emerges at the very end, with the fruit keeping pace. This has range and character. Best from 2021 through 2034. 7 cases imported.

Deep, lurid violet. Pungent, spice-laced black and blue fruit, floral, olive and smoked meat aromas, along with a building licorice quality. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated black currant, bitter cherry, violet pastille and smoky bacon flavors that turn sweeter on the back half. Solid, gripping tannins support a very long, chewy finish that emphatically echoes the floral and bacon notes.

A spicy definition. The oak stands out more. The palate is well-made, with firm substance. Nice potential, but the ageing somewhat restrains the fruit.

Whiffs of granite and crushed violet petals align from nose to finish, lending vitality to rich, penetrating cassis and blackberry flavors. While medium-bodied in frame, it's a powerful wine speckled by smoke, ore and rich earth and held upright by fine, taut tannins. Just beginning to open now, it's a wine that should improve for decades to come.