Delamotte : Blanc de Blancs 2002

Since around two-thirds of Delamotte production represents their basic Brut; another 25% their non-vintage Blanc de Blancs; and there is a bit of rose, too, it follows that their 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs represents a rare bird indeed; and from its being on the market now (in the form of a late-2012 disgorgement) you can recognize how little hurry the house is to release their vintage bottling. Already in the nose, hints of walnut and pistachio oils point toward the bittersweet, subtly smoky, faintly toasty aspect of a bottling that at the same time harbors pure and succulent apple and pear wreathed in heliotrope and orange blossom inner-mouth perfume. A vividly scallop-like and salivary gland-milking sweet- saline, mineral-animal savor opens the floodgates of the salivary glands, and for some of us, perhaps even the tear ducts. This finishes with extraordinary persistence and alliance of richness with levity. Especially considering that, in a vintage of this quality, Salon was not giving up their fruit to help inform this vintage Delamotte, it represents an outstanding accomplishment; and what's more, a quite stunning value for its genre. Delamotte director Didier Depond and chef de cave Michel Fauconnet - also responsible for Champagne Salon, housed in immediately adjacent facilities since both became part of the Laurent-Perrier in 1989 - perpetuate some long-standing house rules, including fermentation in tank, generally with a substantial share of the lots undergoing malolactic transformation; and the incorporation into one or both of their Blanc de Blancs bottlings (in years when no Salon is declared) of fruit from the vineyards under contract for that house. Shades of German wine registration numbers, it is the last portion - here amounting to five digits - of a Delamotte lot number (on the back of each bottle) to which one most needs to attend, as that indicates the disgorgement date, viz. -L ... 04612- was disgorged on the 46th day (thus, in mid-February) of 2012. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

A mineral-driven version, with sleek acidity and a lively bead framing the notes of macerated peach and apricot, candied grapefruit zest and lemon meringue pie. Drink now through 2022. 2,500 cases imported.

Delamotte's 2002 Blanc de Blancs bursts from the glass with lemon peel, brioche, flowers and spices. Rich, textured and utterly impeccable, the 2002 impresses for its breadth and creaminess. This is a fairly accessible 2002 with plenty of near and medium-term appeal. The long, pointed finish is especially of note.

This fine 2002 shows a supple, dense Champagne with good length, a lovely underlying depth and a very generous finish. Good ageing potential.